Artist’s Retreat
Monhegan has always been a haven for artists and artist’s workshops. While we were there, we stumbled onto this group several times at various locations around the island.
Monhegan has always been a haven for artists and artist’s workshops. While we were there, we stumbled onto this group several times at various locations around the island.
The morning we left started clear, but the fog soon swept in giving some mood to the island. Most people who visit Monhegan come for just a few hours via ferry from the mainland, so they don’t need a place to stay. But for those who come for an overnight or two, mainly stay in one of a couple places.
The largest and most visible spot is the Island Inn which has 32 rooms and is probably the first thing you see when pulling up to the dock.
The next most popular place is the Monhegan House with its 28 rooms. Both of these two spots serve breakfast to both those staying there and folks who walk in (like us.)
If you are staying longer the best option is a rental house that run from rustic to almost modern.
If you come by boat, you can always stay aboard. Not on one of these though as they are lobster boats owned by the local fishermaen. There was a small sailboat moored in the harbor this morning, I just didn’t take its portrait.
The photo above is the view out the window to the porch of the cottage my cousin and her husband were renting for their 2 week stay on the island. They have a land line phone (cell coverage is very spotty) and a propane stove and refrigerator, but no electricity. Light is provided by kerosene lamps or candles. There is electricity all over the place on the island, but it costs about 10x what it does on the mainland. Plus there is the expense of putting in wiring in older homes. The Vaughn House where they are staying was built in the 1700’s. The expense is also the reason there are no street lights anywhere on the island, so when the sun goes down you better have a flashlight or the full moon to find your way back to where you are staying.
Last night we went the Cracker Barrel across the street from our HIE to have breakfast for dinner. It was 6 o’clock in the evening and the place was crawling with Hokies on their way home from a football game. We even had to wait 20 minutes to get seated*. As we sat there waiting on our food I could barely hear myself think for all the chatter and dinnerware noises. When I could get a thought in edgewise, all I could get was that there were more people in that restaurant right then, than we saw in our whole two days on Monhegan Island.
*Cracker Barrel is the only place we really wait like that.
When I woke up this morning at 5:00 AM and got up to use the restroom I was alone in in the bed of Room 303 in the Holiday Inn Express in Roanoke, VA. Donna was not in the bathroom either. I turned on the light and she wasn’t in the chair in the corner of the room either. I was alone. My first thought was she had woken up early and gone for a walk, but dismissed that when I looked outside and it was still pitch black. My second thought was she had been abducted by aliens. My third and more likely scenario is that she was curled up on a couch in the lobby sleeping. I have a nice loud snore sometimes which is fine if she gets asleep before me, but if not, then one of us goes to the other bedroom in our house.
Donna was actually across the hall in Room 302. I started snoring, her usual tactics of getting me to be quiet, poking, prodding or talking me into rolling over didn’t work, so she went downstairs at midnight and rented a second room.
Somewhere in the Poconos, the Purple Whale clicked past the 23,000 mile mark.
Today was the first day since we started our trip that I didn’t take a single picture, so I have posted an artsy photo from Monhegan Island. More than likely that will be the case for the next week or so.
Brother Paul, Donna and I set sail back to the mainland this morning on the Hardy III and while the seas were not nearly as rough as the trip out, they were still rolling some. The visibility, was if anything worse, as fog, thick as pea soup, surrounded the ship until about 100 yards from our destination of New Harbor when the sky turned a beautiful blue.
We, along with the other dozen or so passengers, were given a rousing send off by the cousins and various hangers-on at the dock. We parted ways thoroughly bitten by the Monhegan bug, vowing to return next year or at least a lot sooner than the 15 years since our last visit.
There are five geocaches on Monhegan and we found all of them. Yesterday after lunch we did a south island 2.4 mile loop (green) and found the two there. One was a virtual that just required a picture, but the other, which was not too far away was a small tupperware.
This morning after breakfast we did a north island loop and found 2 more. The one at the top of the island was a 50cal ammo can and the other was a small lock-n-lock. We then had some lunch and finished number 5 which was back uphill at the lighthouse in an old popup hand-wipe canister. Today’s mileage was an even 6 miles.
Monhegan Island is 3/4 of a mile wide and 1-3/4 long and has 17 miles of trails for exploring. The trails range from hard pack “roads” to well worn trails through woods to scrambling along rocks to dodging streams. We have trampled on about half of the trails in finding the geocaches, our next visit we’ll probably explore the rest.
We made the trip to Monhegan Island in small craft warnings aboard the Hardy III. Sixty feet seems like more like a big craft to me, but trust me in 8 to 10 foot seas it is rather small. Your author, through only shear force of will and some Gin Gins candies, managed to not get sea sick. Donna and brother Paul seemed unfazed by the tossing and turn which I accredit to the fact that they had been passengers in the Purple Whale while barreling down Maine 32 to New Harbor and been immunized to whoopty-doos and g-forges on the way to New Harbor.
After yesterday’s washout of a day and today’s forecast of a repeat, we were pleasantly surprised to find nearly perfect weather on the island this afternoon. It is supposed to be great tomorrow too. And more importantly great as well Friday morning for our return trip to the mainland about the tiny ship Hardy III.